P0016 P0017

[borjawil]

2011 3.6l 160k miles

Guy before me said 3 of 4 cam sensors, and crank sensor needed replacing. Seems the rear two cam sensors and crank sensor, at least, were replaced.

Not sure if this will help diagnose, but one of the rear cam sensors was not plugged in. Vehicle would not start or would stall if that sensor was plugged in. Replaced that sensor and vehicle would start up. Erased codes and p0016 and p0017 for crank to cam correlation showed up. Vehicle will shut off while at idle randomly. Will start right back up.

Verified crank sensor was replaced, but still swapped in a new one to be sure. Same issue. Timing advance shows about 3-6 degrees on my scan tool, and based on the codes set and many other similar issues in leaning towards timing chain, though there's no rattle or anything.

Wondering if this is a wiring issue possibly, or a VVT sensor or cam phaser. Going to overlay the wiring to crank sensor to be sure.

The codes set are for bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2 I believe. Is this referring to a second crank sensor or specific cam sensors?

 

[Tico007]

Camshaft sensors. Oil control valves for the actuators. Are you running low on oil or behind on oil changes? It happens. If that’s the case, I can recommend.

 

[borjawil]

Bank 1 (head closest to firewall) intake camshaft sensor was being rubbed on. Could feel it by placing my hand on it while engine was running. As noted in my original post, if that sensor was plugged in the engine would stall. Temporary fix - used oring to space it out. No more stalling. I suspect the cam phaser center bolt or backing bolts have loosened.

 

[sdhow]

Yeah...at 160k miles, you've got a loose timing chain on Bank 1. Not so sure on the crankshaft sensor, but it's a b***h to get to...unless you have the engine out; same for the Bank 1 oxygen sensors.

You're going to have to drop the engine and cradle assembly and replace all of the timing components. Chains (all three), guides, tensioners, sprockets, phasers, cam sensors and solenoids, etc. I'd do the water pump, too, as it's easy with the engine out. Check the carbon build up on the intake valves by doing an inspection and a leakdown test. Do the PCV modification...look it up, there's lots of YouTube videos on it.

If you've been driving it for awhile, you got lucky, as these usually crap out around 120-125k miles. If you just bought it...hope you didn't pay more than $1,000 for it. I'm assuming this is why the previous owner unplugged that sensor...you got scammed.

If you decide to fix it, change the oil every 4k miles and use a high quality synthetic from here on out. This is why so many of these end up in the wrecking yard with no collision damage.