Timing chain replace, is it inevitable?

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Travis Bickle

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Was just idly curious. 2015, 2.4 LEA, 77,000+ on it. Runs perfect, no detectable rattle, that I can tell anyway.

Is it a foregone conclusion that the timing chain will have to be replaced at some point? Should it be done so preemptively, as a rule, at say 80,000-100,000, or is it possible it'll just last for the life of the vehicle?
 

bagbyjw

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This link says between 80k - 120k

 

PoManNox

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Was just idly curious. 2015, 2.4 LEA, 77,000+ on it. Runs perfect, no detectable rattle, that I can tell anyway.

Is it a foregone conclusion that the timing chain will have to be replaced at some point? Should it be done so preemptively, as a rule, at say 80,000-100,000, or is it possible it'll just last for the life of the vehicle?
I'd keep up on frequent oil changes, make sure to never run the oil level low and ride on. Cut open all your used oil filters and examine them for metal bits if you are concerned. If you hear a hint of rattle, it may be time, or it could be something else. If you have concerns, you can pull any of the oil pressure control solenoids to look for metal bits on their screens, you may have caught it just in time or it could be too late at that point.

A lot of people claim "Oh I maintained this thing meticulously", but they are the second or third owner, or they stretched oil changes too long some of the time, or they let the oil level run low some of the time, etc. Meticulous maintenance to me is oil changes every ~4K miles, every time since new, without fail. Every 5-6K miles is good maintenance. I wouldn't go beyond that with any GDI engine.
 

sdhow

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Was just idly curious. 2015, 2.4 LEA, 77,000+ on it. Runs perfect, no detectable rattle, that I can tell anyway.

Is it a foregone conclusion that the timing chain will have to be replaced at some point? Should it be done so preemptively, as a rule, at say 80,000-100,000, or is it possible it'll just last for the life of the vehicle?
Yes. Go to the wrecking yard and look at all of the undamaged Equinoxes that have been scraped. When you break or stretch the timing chain, it's an interference fit engine. Chances are, it's now junk.
 

TopHat

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A timing chain for a well-maintained vehicle should last 300K miles. A timing belt is a different matter and probably won't survive 75K miles. I've never needed to change a timing chain on a GM vehicle that I have owned. If you bought it used, hope you got documentation of oil/filter changes, etc.
 

Travis Bickle

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A timing chain for a well-maintained vehicle should last 300K miles. A timing belt is a different matter and probably won't survive 75K miles. I've never needed to change a timing chain on a GM vehicle that I have owned. If you bought it used, hope you got documentation of oil/filter changes, etc.
Does that include experience with the 2.4l Ecotec LEA?

I agree with the statement, in general.
 

TopHat

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2.4l Ecotec
No it does not. A sad engine. Reminds me of a very good Ford/Lincoln engine that had timing chain issues. About 2013 it came out with a turbocharged 3.5-liter V6 engine that produced 365 horsepower. Ford quietly, a number of years later, strengthened the timing chain system and added a 2nd chain. Those who had the earlier versions usually continued to experience timing chain issues around 100K.
 

sdhow

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A timing chain for a well-maintained vehicle should last 300K miles. A timing belt is a different matter and probably won't survive 75K miles. I've never needed to change a timing chain on a GM vehicle that I have owned. If you bought it used, hope you got documentation of oil/filter changes, etc.

..and it's not just the chains that are suspect. It's the guide material used on the tensioners...and there are like 5.

You bring up a good point with the oil quality and change intervals. If you go by the oil monitor, it's way too long. I never go more than 4k on my oil changes.
 

PoManNox

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Timing chains on your standard port injected OHC engine could indeed last ~300K miles or more. The problem today is GDI. You wont find a single GDI engine that will go that distance on the factory timing gear. A theory I have on that is the volume of soot GDI contaminates the oil with acts as an abrasive.

I experienced it myself with my 2019 Nissan Pathfinder with the GDI VQ35DD engine. Granted I did buy it as a 1yr old ex-rental with ~25K miles on it, but despite my insane oil/filter change regimen, in 2024 with 105K miles on it, it began with the early stages of the death throw sounds from the timing chains and associated equipment. I traded it in vs fixing it knowing it's a common failure on this VQ engine. I changed the oil/filter on that beast myself every 3500mi without fail from 25K to over 100K miles. Excessive timing chain wear is a problem on GDI.
 

sdhow

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I'm not so sure timing chain/tensioner guide wear is as much GDI as it is the VVT hardware.

You can blame Ford for the design of VVT.
 

PoManNox

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I'm not so sure timing chain/tensioner guide wear is as much GDI as it is the VVT hardware.

You can blame Ford for the design of VVT.
I agree. One would think this with the plastic material on the guides.

I'm not an engine builder or a mechanic, but based on the youtube channels I've watched for years. Engine tear down pics on GDIs don't typically show excessive guide wear. The chains "stretch" (get loose/sloppy) and the teeth wear on the sprockets, causing the tensioners to max themselves out, in an attempt to keep the chain tight.
 

sdhow

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If you're going to keep the car and it's in the 100k-120k mi range, I'd do the chain, tensioners, VVT sprockets and phasers, water pump, belt, belt tensioner and pulley. I'd throw in the camshaft solenoids and sensors, too. Hell, take the starter off and replace the crankshaft position sensor while you're in there. Use GM or Cloyes parts ONLY.

Should be good for another 100-150k miles. Use a high quality synthetic oil...and change it at no more than 4,000 mile intervals.
 

PoManNox

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If you're going to keep the car and it's in the 100k-120k mi range, I'd do the chain, tensioners, VVT sprockets and phasers, water pump, belt, belt tensioner and pulley....

Agreed.

If you really keep on top of your maintenance / oil changes you should be good to go for closer to 150K+. Thing is, you really have to be diligent in listening for startup noise when the tensioners max out. Your average clueless Equinox owner isn't so on top of things and runs the engine with timing chain rattle for too long, sending that metal throughout the engine. Or they just plain run it till things fail catastrophically.
 

Travis Bickle

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Roger, I'm all about prevention.

So what exactly are the warning signs I should be looking for, to know when the time is near?

I've put the stethoscope on the front cover at idle, I don't think I'm really hearing much of a rattle, and there is no rattle sound or hesitation on starting.

What should I be watching or listening for?
 

PoManNox

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Roger, I'm all about prevention.

So what exactly are the warning signs I should be looking for, to know when the time is near?

I've put the stethoscope on the front cover at idle, I don't think I'm really hearing much of a rattle, and there is no rattle sound or hesitation on starting.

What should I be watching or listening for?

Sounds like you got it covered. Aside from oil changes every 5K miles or less and listening for startup noise, or any unusual noise, all you can do is cut open and inspect your used oil filters for metal bits, or pop out VVT solenoids or oil pressure control solenoids to check their screens for metal bits.
 

Travis Bickle

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Sounds good.

Would it be a good idea to yank the valve cover off and check the chain for slack?
 

PoManNox

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Sounds good.

Would it be a good idea to yank the valve cover off and check the chain for slack?
I wouldn't do it for that sole purpose. If you had to have it off for a valve cover re-seal, etc, then absolutely I'd give everything I could see a look-over. There may also be some slack in the chain with the engine off as the tensioner(s) won't have hydraulic pressure at that time.
 

Radonc73

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I just took mine in at 145000 miles. The rattle is very noticable at low RPMs it sounds like a diesel engine.
 

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