2013 Equinox 2.4L Transmission Issue

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HalftimeB

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Hi all, new here. I have a 2013 2.4L LT with 98k miles. Issue started 2 days ago but basic is the transmission shifting is delayed and at a higher RPM than normal. Same for downshifting say going 50mph taking foot off gas it stays at a higher RPM and doesn’t shift down like it normally would. I’ve read a few posts here trying to diagnose but don’t k ow where to start as it’s my daily driver for family need to get fixed quickly. No jerking or noises I can hear either really. If it matter I do have an exhaust leak somewhere that I need to get fixed but have had that for at least 2 years and this issue just started but wanted to give all info. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

Hey Vern!

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Does it have tow haul mode and could it be stuck on? If not, does it have any codes or a check engine light?
 

Hey Vern!

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Possibly the transmission shift solenoid?

I saw on another Forum to clean the throttle body and MAF. They said this could solve the issue.
 

HalftimeB

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Ok too shop and he is gonna clean throttle body on Monday. Will ask him to clean MAF also. Getting fluid flush and fill also.
 

HalftimeB

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Will let you all know. And getting a new battery as mine is 4 yrs old. Heard that could potentially be issue also
 

HalftimeB

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Problem still exists. I saw some posts about a TCM reset? Anyone done this? Know how to? How much for scan tool etc?
 

Travis Bickle

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Usually you can find a scan tool for 100-150 bucks, autoparts stores, or even Harbor Freight had some. Very worthwhile investment.
 
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Dirty, burnt, contaminated fluid maybe. Should have been changed at least twice by that mileage.
 

NOX4ME

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Hi all, new here. I have a 2013 2.4L LT with 98k miles. Issue started 2 days ago but basic is the transmission shifting is delayed and at a higher RPM than normal. Same for downshifting say going 50mph taking foot off gas it stays at a higher RPM and doesn’t shift down like it normally would. I’ve read a few posts here trying to diagnose but don’t k ow where to start as it’s my daily driver for family need to get fixed quickly. No jerking or noises I can hear either really. If it matter I do have an exhaust leak somewhere that I need to get fixed but have had that for at least 2 years and this issue just started but wanted to give all info. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Sounds like low transmission fluid. Do a transmission service, and use Amsoil transmission fluid. It will run smoother and your fuel mileage will increase.
 

HalftimeB

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Already did fluid change and throttle body clean and fixed both exhaust leak areas (manifold and flex pipe) and new MAF (Gm genuine). . . No change
 

theskyisoutthere

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Did you figure it out yet?

I have an 11 2.4 awd that acted similar with 114k. I had massive issues in trans had a total rebuild but it was also slipping as well as reving weird. Fixed trans issue with 3/5/r slips and bang into gear, and slipping. Then after that I had the high RPM like sometimes it would get up into very high RPM before shifting but not slipping and no code. Again this continued after transmission was rebuilt (soup to nuts rebuild even torque converter replaced). Trans shop had no idea exactly the cause but guessed it was part of the whole electric system and not the actual trans and gave me some tips and I think you might have already tried what I did from the post. They weren't pushing me off, they actually said they would take it apart again and check it out but to check about other things first as they drove it too and it wasn't slipping like it was and was shifting just wasn't behaving as expected.

So finally I replaced with new (after cleaning didn't not fix issue) the throttle body complete. Of course it instantly threw a code as you expect with out a complete reset. I did contact a dealer mechanic who said do it anyway make it throw a code, and see how it drive if it drives differently with the code you have a result. It did drive differently but not correctly but a different result. I asked him again about it he said to go through a reset procedure after clearing code and doing the battery off for 30 mins. Although he said he wasn't sure which one of the at home resets would work. He had me do the off gass pedal hold for 30sec turn key on with pedal down, for 30 release for 30, then off for 30 then on press pedal down for 30 then off with pedal held and release. Then said turn everything off inside car with key on engine off then then with all doors shut turn key off then back on to start no accessories on and let it idle till warm at least 5 mins or more (I waited for about 10. Then off then start and idle 3 mins, off for 1 min then start and idle for 3 mins. Then drive. And he warned me it will relearn as I drive give it a few drive cycles before making a judgment on fixed or not. It was fixed and learned to shift normally again.

After reporting back to him he said yes it was probably the throttle body electronics specifically the throttle position sensor. In it, or the control motor, most likely position sensor. He claimed it effects shifting, based on where you put the throttle, which makes sense and said that unless it goes out completely for enough time it would code. He also so if there is any more issues I should change the pedal too for the other side of the sensor. Also recommended I check wiring on both ends for cracks and brakes or connector issues.

Anyways hope this helps.

The take away for me was I had multiple issues, but the car was a bit of a gamble I bought it damaged. It was bought for metal weight paid 300 bucks as the previous owner was told me had a trans issue, as they did, it was slipping and not good going into gear in 3/5/R, and engine issues (I had did the timing myself complete with water pump and all too). So with the purchase price, timing, brakes, tires, cat pipe, a few other bits, transmission rebuild, and throttle body, I had just over 3k and many hours of my time, in a 11 awd with 114k miles that was after 1k in shaking it down again, inspected in the annoying state of MD and working well. Side note not sure when but someone had previously did work in that motor found out when doing the timing, which was just starting to rattle chain with no codes. You could tell I had previously had work. Dealer said I had a past engine warranty work but they didn't do it and it didn't say neither it was an oil eater that got fixed or not. But it doesn't seem to be eating oil so far. If I was the original owner of this I would have been pissed if it got this bad in 113 to 114k after seeing how many others didn't make it this far. But in reality it's a cheap car for this price. Yes I am rambling.
 

HalftimeB

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Thank you for this post. So if I want to go your route, after I disconnect for 30-40 mins (also put new battery in last week as well since it was close to time anyway). Not sure I understand this reset gas on gas off your talking about. Is it possible to just buy that throttle sensor and replace myself? You think new gas pedal could fix it too? Sorry a lot of information to take in. I’m hoping to fix it and prob sell and move on before another issue with it. Appreciate any advice on replacing sensor and pedal or doing that restart up up down down left right left right B A Start. ;)
 

theskyisoutthere

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Thank you for this post. So if I want to go your route, after I disconnect for 30-40 mins (also put new battery in last week as well since it was close to time anyway). Not sure I understand this reset gas on gas off your talking about. Is it possible to just buy that throttle sensor and replace myself? You think new gas pedal could fix it too? Sorry a lot of information to take in. I’m hoping to fix it and prob sell and move on before another issue with it. Appreciate any advice on replacing sensor and pedal or doing that restart up up down down left right left right B A Start. ;)
I put a 60 throttle body in it. I originally was going to swap one from another car but decided it was best to replace. In theory you can do the sensor but I believe its throttle blade out to do it. Or it looked that way on mine. I gave in and went new mostly because the dealer mechanic said the aftermarket ones were mostly ok that he had seen. But 60 bucks was not a big investment. Ordered from Amazon (gamble I know.). The gas pedal was not changed. But that has been mentioned in other posts specifically in the earlier ones of that generation. If you were out my way (Western MD, I could let you try the throttle body on my parts car) it's a 12 and should be same. But 60 bucks was a cheap part test. I would do throttle body alone first. There is like 6 wires or 5 I forget that are part of that whole system. Also the mechanic remarked about decarbonize the head with some chemicals, made me a recommendation of some stuff to use, which I did but that was after I fixed the throttle body issue said they also suffer from build up and to watch for a check engine flash at high RPM with our code setting, he said that indicates in the 2.4 either enough hot build up to ping or enough on plugs to change plugs. Either way to run a chemical like seafoam (probably same thing) and let it get into the head and down the back of the valves through the intake ingestion since direct injection doesn't wash valves from the PCV build up. ( I had to do this same thing in a Ford escape we had).

But seriously I put a mid priced aftermarket stock replacement complete throttle body in it. I changed the gasket at the same time (doesn't come with throttle body) might not have needed to change it it's a squish reusable style one but better to piece of mind.

The gas in off was meaning pedal down all the way during key run engine off. Again not sure if that did anything or just pulling the battery did
 

theskyisoutthere

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I put a 60 throttle body in it. I originally was going to swap one from another car but decided it was best to replace. In theory you can do the sensor but I believe its throttle blade out to do it. Or it looked that way on mine. I gave in and went new mostly because the dealer mechanic said the aftermarket ones were mostly ok that he had seen. But 60 bucks was not a big investment. Ordered from Amazon (gamble I know.). The gas pedal was not changed. But that has been mentioned in other posts specifically in the earlier ones of that generation. If you were out my way (Western MD, I could let you try the throttle body on my parts car) it's a 12 and should be same. But 60 bucks was a cheap part test. I would do throttle body alone first. There is like 6 wires or 5 I forget that are part of that whole system. Also the mechanic remarked about decarbonize the head with some chemicals, made me a recommendation of some stuff to use, which I did but that was after I fixed the throttle body issue said they also suffer from build up and to watch for a check engine flash at high RPM with our code setting, he said that indicates in the 2.4 either enough hot build up to ping or enough on plugs to change plugs. Either way to run a chemical like seafoam (probably same thing) and let it get into the head and down the back of the valves through the intake ingestion since direct injection doesn't wash valves from the PCV build up. ( I had to do this same thing in a Ford escape we had).

But seriously I put a mid priced aftermarket stock replacement complete throttle body in it. I changed the gasket at the same time (doesn't come with throttle body) might not have needed to change it it's a squish reusable style one but better to piece of mind.

The gas in off was meaning pedal down all the way during key run engine off. Again not sure if that did anything or just pulling the battery did
Also to clarify the mechanic said he seen alot of the factory throttle body on the 2.4s only fail after 80 to 100 k miles. So he was quick to just tell me to start there.
 

HalftimeB

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Perfect ordering a new GM genuine throttle body for $106 plus $6 for new gasket right now. Watched video seems like a quick 15 min job to replace plus 30 min battery disconnect
 

HalftimeB

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After install and battery reconnect. What do you suggest ? Just drive it ? Or do the pedal 30 sec thing you mentioned?
 

HalftimeB

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Ordered. Be here weds end of day so will install thurs and update. Still would like recommendation on just battery disconnect or pedal thing. Thanks again
 

theskyisoutthere

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Ordered. Be here weds end of day so will install thurs and update. Still would like recommendation on just battery disconnect or pedal thing. Thanks again
He told me both those things something about the model years vary about resetting the throttle body, but honestly I think the leaving battery off for a while is the way to go then do the steps mentioned
 

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