Stalls after starting then starts up and is fine?

[ddreisbach]

Okay guys. Got a 2013 ls awd 2.4l with 122000 on it. When I start her up In the morning she dies as the rpm’s come back down. Start her back up and she runs fine. Go to leave work after about 10 hours and she acts like she wants to die but doesn’t. Start her up the next morning and it’s the same thing. I have replace the throttle body, tps sensor, both vvt solenoids, and the maf sensor. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Rotwiler]

Do this, add Bardahl no-smoke around 6-8 ounces to oil at every oil change. My 2014 awd 2.4 did same thing, fought with it replacing everything and seen YouTube guy say to add the no smoke. Works perfect, went 11 months zero stall(not once) , used to stall every start after about 10 seconds, rpms would start jumping, if I hit gas would shake and finally come out of stalling sometimes, then after restarting was fine. I searched every forum, only thing that worked. Was bardahl no smoke, others added stp oil treatment and worked, but I went with the bardahl. Sounds stupid, but I was amazed, I replaced, tb, 02, air filter, maf, spark plugs, used a bunch of pea fuel cleaner etc. Also buy a ac Delco FC219 oil cap, 2.4 is known to blow rear main seal, the oil cap is less than $12 and vents once pressure hits a certain level. I am 99.9% sure the bardahl no smoke+ will work though. To save you time, I searched everywhere for year, no forum could explain what issue was, others spent $$$ going to shop that threw parts at the engine and never could come up with solution. Nobody has given me a answer, I was actually laughed off the oil forum when I told them this worked, I wouldn't post it works if wasn't proven by many. My awd 2.4 Terrain had this issue at 40k miles, now at around 60k. Never throws a code, but runs perfect since adding the no smoke. Over year ago before I added the no smoke, if I reset the computer it would be fine for a few starts but then return, mine stalled every start, hot, cold, after 8 hour drive, etc. I changed oil a month ago, stall returned, added no smoke, been perfect since, is really weird, but I have a year of testing this and works.

 

[Rotwiler]

Please update me if you do take my advice, I am trying to find out why this works and would be helpful. Any oil thickening additive should in theory work, but the bardahl no smoke has been proven to work by many. If you want link to guy on YouTube, I can provide that also. He even went as far as removing entire intake manifold.

 

[ddreisbach]

I will try this and let you know.

 

[Rotwiler]

OK, should only take about 3 starts after adding to completly stop the stalling.

 

[Markni12301]

Nice write up and testimony. Can you specify which Bardahl you added and to where? I was assuming it was the no smoke oil additive but then I searched for it and found no smoke engine additive and also concentrated double action synthetic formula no smoke + stopLeak oil additive.

 

[Rotwiler]

I put in the no smoke plus stop leak, added to oil. I don't think the stop leak matters, reg no smoke should work, stp, maybe Lucas oil stabilizer. When adding to oil I added around 6 Oz, checked idle at start and was enough, others said they used 8oz. I am not a oil additive guy, only additive I use normally is lubegard biotech added to oil to increase moly and protect timing chain and my hemi truck needs moly to prevent tick etc, I added some to the 2.4, to prevent timing chain issues. Seen in forums the biotech is the best additive with moly, it clings to metal to prevent wear and has a reaction that attracts it to metal(*but biotech will not stop stall*). My thoughts on why no smoke worked, I dunno. Only thing I can think in my head, been thinking a lot, maybe weak oil pump on the 2.4 or maybe oil gets by rings, just enough to cause the stall, really is odd. My mpg also went up after adding it, from normal 19mpg to 22, maybe from not wasting gas when dies at start. Is good idea to change oil in 2.4s around every 4k miles if you want engine to last. Check pcv line going to intake to be sure is clear of oil also. I normally use havoline full synthetic in box, is around $20 for 6 quarts currently, is good oil and you have enough to do oil change and have extra to top off.

 

[Rotwiler]

With the 2.4s there are a few issues, oil changes should be done early, in 4k mile range. If you want to do it fast, you can get a 12v $14 oil extractor pump. I pump out oil, change filter every 4k miles, then around every 20k I drain from pan. Saves a lot of time and only takes a few minutes to change oil the pump way. The Transmission does not have a filter you can change, is lifetime one. So is advised by many to drain and fill fluid around every 25k-30k miles, I pump out as much as I can and fill every 10k, might not be best way, but is super easy. The pcv can clog or freeze during very cold weather, if does, high chance you will blow your engines rear main seal costing $1000+ to fix, adding a AC Delco FC219 pressure release oil cap will prevent this and is really cheap oem part, around $8-12. We all know the Vvt solenoids go out, super easy to replace, one bolt, unplug, replace. Those are the main preventive maintenance things that need done. If adding something like lubegard biotech, it could protect the timing chain, a common issue.

 

[ddreisbach]

Please update me if you do take my advice, I am trying to find out why this works and would be helpful. Any oil thickening additive should in theory work, but the bardahl no smoke has been proven to work by many. If you want link to guy on YouTube, I can provide that also. He even went as far as removing entire intake manifold.

I can tell you that stp did not work. It is at the dealership now. I will try bardahl after an oil changed

 

[Rotwiler]

Grrr

 

[Rayban]

The oil thickening additive did not work for me. The car starts and runs fine until the RPMS start to reduce, it runs rough and stalls before it gets to baseline idle. No codes. Once the engine is restarted, it runs fine and idles smooth.

 

[Tico007]

Does your 2013 have secondary air?