bolt reuse?

[corvairbob]

can anyone tell me if i can reuse the rod bolts and the mains bolts? in my engine rebuilds all i ever came across was head bolts, and now i find the phaser bolts are tty. in rock auto they do not have rod bolts and any other bolts that are reused bolts. so what i have going on is timing chain repair and because this engine is using a gallon of oil a month i want to pull the pistons and do a ring job and because i have to pull the rods i will install new bearings if the bearings look good and gage out in speck. but some are telling me the rod bolts are tty so if they are where do you get them besides the dealer at their prices i tried ebay and as you know ebay has about everything. and even searching amazon did not show up with any.

so what is the scoop? thanks

 

[corvairbob]

ok found out they are one-time bolts. i have the engine apart the oil rings were stuck in the compressed state. now wonder it used oil. can anyone tell me if these oil sprayer nozzles are really needed? did they do away with them in the newer engines? if so maybe i can remove them or pinch them closed some to help with the excess oil spray.

the rods had .003 clearance on them and they did not have much for groves or wear. the babbit was still on them. so i have to find out what the standard rod journal size is so i can mic them and see if i need standard or under-size bearings unless someone here has that handy. also the piston bore for standard. thanks bp

 

[corvairbob]

ok don't see any answers so i'm going to another place on this site ti see if anyone has answers. thanks

 

[[email protected]]

Well here is my answer/advice. When ever one is in Engine rebuild mode, never skimp on internal parts. So, just how expensive can Rod Bolts be? If ya need a few bucks to git-er-done I can prob send enough to cover.View attachment 440View attachment 440View attachment 440

 

[corvairbob]

thanks but i can afford it i was just curious how other do this. in my machine repair years a lot of botks were torque to yeid according to the hex key companies but i found they said the to sell bolts. one time i had the engineer test anew hew bolt and a used bolt and they were both the same in measurements and in the pull test he did. i have a corvair that has torque to yield studs and the corvair guys resue them. and ihave resued them many times. one reason is the studs are set in the block from the factory and if you remove them y0u disturb the thereads and new studs tend to pull out, been there and done that. and i'm not a fan of helicoils most toolmakers will not use helicoids either.

so for this engine i was curious if some did reuse them. kind of like the flywheel boths that are said to be torque to yeild and in this enging when itook off the flyweer so i can change out the rear main seal those bolts were blue locktited so that tells me they were resued most likely from an engine rebuild or swap at the dealer. the engine to bellhouse bolts were also locktieted . the factory does not use Loctite in assembly. thanks

 

[57chevythunder]

Hello corvairbob. Just noticed your post and I do have a thought about the oil squirter nozzles: It is my understanding that these were added to help reduce piston temperature. I thought they actually direct a controlled amount of oil up under the head of the piston.
Anyway, since you have discovered stuck oil control rings, I will share a small piece of my personal experience a very long time ago on one of my 327 engines in a '63 Impala. I was experimenting with carburetor jetting, and ran it fairly hard for several hundred miles at highway speeds with the fuel mixture so lean that it was causing a slight surge. It immediately began consuming an unreal amount of oil. Upon engine teardown I found stuck oil control rings on every piston. I showed the pistons to a highly experienced chevy engine builder, and his very first comment was that for some reason the pistons had gotten way hotter than they should have.
So, quite factually, my excessive lean mistures caused excessive combustion temps, and over-heated pistons, thus sticking the oil control rings.

So there is my 2 cents. By over-heating the pistons I made an instant oil burner out of that engine. (that engine never used oil before that)

My thoughts: If the oil nozzles that you have in that engine are in fact piston squirters, I think their purpose is to help reduce piston temps to help reduce pre-ignition. (actually detonation, I think) And if the oil stream is directed correctly, then I doubt the oil supplied by them would be over-loading the oil control rings.

Sorry I have nothing to contribute regarding your bolts,,,, but just wanted to tell you about stuck oil control rings.

Hope you find your answers.

 

[corvairbob]

thanks that is what others have said. i found the piston's oil drains were blocked so i drilled them the next size bigger and i added 2 more holes also the oil ring expanders were all plugged as well. i just do not understand those jets as my corvair runs at 325 deg and lays flat and when i tore it down 15 years or so ago the oil rings were perfect. i tore that engine down due to piston slap from preignition that most had. and those engines had the same compression as the ecotec. but not fuel injection. anyway, i will leave it alone and if i have to tear it down again you can bet those will go away. one thing that i also figure some new engineer came up with is that pvc being a jet and not the valve. my corvair has the same thine and back 50 years ago gm found out that that technology did not work and went away with it. and i see the 2018 ecotec engine now went back to pvc valves. thanks