2014 equinox jerking

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danjo86

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I have a lunch scanner. It's one u can make keys an stuff with . I think it will graph all that. My problem is i can drive an drive an it may not do it . So the chance of me being able to actually have the scanner set up an it misfire are slim. So if the reluctor has move it will cause the same issue? I'll pull the cover an check. I found new gm cams both under 200 . Also u said gas pedal sensor? How could a person test that ? I have done about everything possible I can think of. All the timing is ac Delco. Anything I have replaced is. I can rob parts off a parts car that jumped time.
 

corvairbob

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your launch scanner should be able to test the gas peddle. you say it does the only at idle if so and you can just move the gas a bit and it smooths out that could be the gas peddle. i do not know what the test is for the gas peddle but that scanner should show it
this one may be better

but it looks like if it is the app you should dee codes for it and it sounds like your not seeing codes for the app.

so if you can get the graphs up for the intake and exhaust vvt phasers that i sent you may find something in them.
i have tried searching to the equinox 2.2 with erratic missfire and have had no luck yet.

here is one that talks of a erratic missfire

that is all i could fine so far for equinox 2.2 erratic misfire at idle. take a look at them and see if one of them might be close to your issue. good luck
 

corvairbob

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ok here are a bunch of YT that talk of idle issues, it is a lot of videos but some talk if the iac intake air valve that may cause erratic idle issues. i do not see one on this car but if you get time to view them before you do a fuel pump.

this YT show injectors that may do this also that has been discussed here. 7:30 in the video

he found injectors that were dirty and then put seafoam in the gas and claims it got way better.

without being in fornt of it at this time i'm out of ideas. and none may even be the fix. but if you get time to review them it may jog your thoughts to a fix. good luck to you.
 

danjo86

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I appreciate the help. My injectors were pretty dirty. I robbed a set off a parts car that looked really good. I'll keep digging an will be sure to post what I find
 

danjo86

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Corvairbob I looked my graph is a little different. Desired intake an actual are dead on flat line . My exhaust desired is flat line actual is not. Its desired at 5 when I'm in gear. Actual is 4 5 6 just up an down. Never constant...
 

corvairbob

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ok did you compare it to the video i sent you for the vvt waves? i watched a south main auto vided talking about the vvt being off and how to dianose that. like i said if the exhaust reluctor is spinning onthe exhause cam after the cam warms up that is going to thro those off in an intermintant, sometimes the engine runs good sometimes bad. there was another thread here that we talked on that and that fella found his exhaust cam reluctor ring was moving. i sent him photos of that a good one looks like and his was different 2 times he checked. you might search for that thread as i did not save it. this is the cam for the LEA engine. this LEA engine uses the same phasers for both sides . for the most part you can't move that on the cam when cold but when it warms up it actually can spin a bit on the cam main body section. if you find this is happening you can drill into the lower section and insert a roll pin to hold the reluctor into place. that other guy opted for another cam.


this is the part from rock auto
GM GENUINE 12604896 Info
Exhaust https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2017,equinox,2.4l+l4,3434314,engine,camshaft,5260
1675988617596.jpeg

this is the cams on my engine notice the location of the smaller oening on mine it is located correctly
1675990879285.jpeg
this is the exhaust cam

i'm sure this is the phaser pin locations for the LEA engine
1675990372524.png

exhaust side pin location

1675990433257.jpeg
intake side pin location
1675990471637.jpeg





on this website you can add scope angles but i put in some for reference

south main auto cam scope video about 11 min in the video but you may want to just watch it it is for the impala but same engine

out side of this infor i'm out of ideas. but like i said one guy on the equinox site had similar issues and it was the exhaust cam reluctor shifting. and causing his engine to sound like a misfire/stumble rough idle but do not just get a cam until you can prove it out, but if you do see the reluctor is not as the photo it may be out of tolerance. but in the photo of the cam in my car that one was good she did nothave any ore codes for the tieming now for over a year so that tells me tht reluctor was aligned good enough to not issue any codes.

good luck
 

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corvairbob

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also if your exhaust is moving like you say try putting the old exhaust vvt solenoid back in after you clean it and see if it does better. i think i mentioned that i had to put the old vvt solenoids back in for a few months because i got a few codes and after putting the old and clean vvt solenoids back in the codes went away and then about a few month i tried the new ones again and all was good. i have no clue why that was but for some reason the ecu and phasers did not like the new vvt solenoids. this is a lot to take in but it is the best i can offer based on what i had going on. and tons of research and i did not have a scanner that took the readings your getting. just trial and error.

one more question you said you changed map and most if not all sensors etc. when you had the intake off did yon probe the tiny hole in the center area of the intake for the pvc? that plugs up and can thro off the pvc vacuum and that just could also be a reason as the vacuum is changing day to day. i actually drilled completely thru that hole and out the other side and then put in a long screw into that to pug it and use it for a pvc cleanout port and clean it out now and then when the engine started running bad again. but after that mod i then installed a normal pvc system so i may not ever need to use that now. and there is a YT showing how to do that as well. if i remember gm went back to a normal pvc in 2018 the pvc upgrade YT

pluged pvc port
1675992595529.jpeg
clean pvc port

1675992621843.jpeg

screw for cleaning the pvc port with the intake still on the engine it is jsut a screw and i can take it out to run a pin into this hole to clean out the pvc port but that was before i installed the normal pvc system so i may never have to use it now
1675992682400.jpeg
 

danjo86

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I cleaned the pcv out. I do have a second intake I'm going to do that mod with. I have an extra cam cover . I'm going to have a port welded on so I can put a PVC directly in the cover . An as far as the cam phasers I've tried new ones an old ones. I have a second motor I picked up complete for 75 bucks. But it had jumped time. I'm going to look at both cams sat . I'll post up what I find. If nothing else I'll drive it till what ever it is stops completely or melts down. At this point the cam or fuel pump and o2s are the only thing no new .
 

corvairbob

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you do not have to weld on the intake cover just use the oil fill cap for the place for the pvc valve watch that YT on the pvc update it is simple and cheap. the vvt solenoids are what i was refereing to not the phasers. if the phasers are new you should be ok. but on my car i had to clean the old vvt solenoids and put them back in for a few months and when the codes all stopped i then tried the new vvt solenoids and i did not get anymore codes. i have no clue why that happened but some guys said the ecu was relearning and that may be whey the codes appeared. so i put the new solenoids back in

the intake reluctor does not seem to be an issue for some reason. mostly guys have had issues with the exhaust reluctor moving on the cam. if you happen to take the cover off again rotate the cam so you can see the #4 lobes point upwards and then look for that narrow gap to be aligned with the lobes.

if the other engined jumpe time it may have damaged the valves and they are interference valves

did i send you the b1s1 02 sensor fix? some guys said they changed that 1st 02 sensor before the cat and the rough idle went away so it may be a good idea to try that before you tear into more parts removal, if the car has the orginal 02 in it and has over 100k on it it may be time to just change it out anyway, but most guyes did not like the bosh 02 sensor. they all had to go with the delco 02 sensor. so give that a try. i just do not see the fuel pump causing this issue unless the high pressure unit is not good and you said you changed that. but make sure it has the original type gasket and not rtv and if that pump sets to close the the cam lobes it can cause the too high of pressure as it is working a bit more than intended. good luck keep us posted.
 

danjo86

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Update. Swapped the exhaust cam. New gm . It looked like it may have moved so very little. Same issue. I'm going to drop the tank . But first put in a new O2 .
 

corvairbob

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ok thanks for the update. it may be possible the fuel pump is giving you fits but in my years of working on pumps they just fail. one thing i seen on chryslers is the fuel pump relay sometimes goes intermittent and allow the pump to cycle, but i think you said you swapped the relay.

so before you drop the tank check out this YT for the fp module located under the back seat and they show ho to test for this module to determine if it is the module or the pump. but this YT is based on the car failure to run at all. also this YT show how to key test the module and they show an issue with the wires and not the pump so may be worth checking it out.

also can you give us the codes your seeing now if any? have they actually changed form earlier in this thread? we are way deep in this thread so giving the codes will help keep us on track. thanks

 
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danjo86

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Corvairbob thanks for sticking it out. An I swapped the pump just got done. No codes other than misfire.
 

danjo86

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Corvairbob thanks for sticking it out. An I swapped the pump just got done. No codes other than misfire.
Also I have a buddy that has HP tuners. If all else fails as bad as I'd hate to I'm going to have him turn up the rpms just a touch. I'll drive it tomorrow an see how it acts
 

corvairbob

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what codes are you still getting if you do have them. there has to be a root cause. you have just about installed a new engine. so if it has codes and if they are different than what they were from the beginning. post them so we all can run down our fixes for those codes thanks

here is the gotech garage site this link if for misfires they are p0300 issues and yours seems to be different but you may ask them with your codes and see what they say


this one does injector testing from go tech upi may have a intermittent wire to the pcm

go to the gotech site and search for those codes. that guy on that site will answer emails with possible fixes. at least he did for me 5 years ago with a 02 sensor that would fail in a 15 mile drive.
 
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danjo86

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what codes are you still getting if you do have them. there has to be a root cause. you have just about installed a new engine. so if it has codes and if they are different than what they were from the beginning. post them so we all can run down our fixes for those codes thanks

here is the gotech garage site this link if for misfires they are p0300 issues and yours seems to be different but you may ask them with your codes and see what they say


this one does injector testing from go tech upi may have a intermittent wire to the pcm

go to the gotech site and search for those codes. that guy on that site will answer emails with possible fixes. at least he did for me 5 years ago with a 02 sensor that would fail in a 15 mile drive.
I messaged him. Also just now while it was missing I unplugged the exhaust actuator an it smooths out. It's new ac Delco . But when I un plugged it I also got a code for it the fuel rail pressure sensor.
 

corvairbob

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ok your talking the exhaust vvt soleniod correct? if so check the ohms agains the old ones and the intake and see if they are the same. i do not recall that number. and for what it is worth when i did mine and put in the new vvt solenoids i got tons of codes for stuff that was not even for the engine. so i cleaned the old ones and put them back and the codes went away. then after the engine started running better i did put the new wones back and i did not get those codes again. i'm leaning on the ecu had to relearn all the new items i installed.


also it did you ever do a compression test? and or when you had the engine out you say you did the rings so i assume you had the head off. by any chance did you redo the valves? and or test them for funtion? by funtion i mean put water or lite oil in the ports to see if it worked into the combustion side of the valve?

those 2 videos i send today show you how to test for failed sensors and or the wiring back to the ecu.

and if you still have codes what might they be? even if they are the same we are far down this thread and i can't remember them now.
 

danjo86

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The codes were for a random misfire. P 300 I think..an re ground the vavles an the exhaust vvt. I have 3 new ones 2 being ac Delco. I talked to a guy to day had him put it on his laptop . He seams to think something to do with the evap tank underneath by the fuel tank. But I can control the venting . An it misfires with it venting or not. I did get a rail pressure sensor . But had that before an changed it. Still missed . Now I have a used set of injectors in it with the sensor it came with. But only got that code again today . An only after I unplugged the exhaust vvt sensor
 

corvairbob

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ok so your getting the p0017 or 18 ? we talked about the phasers before. did you find out if your engine is the lea engine? if it is both the phasers are the same. i think you said you put in new phasers and delco or cloyes? if you did not put in new phasers they do break and i can send photos of y broken phasers. that is why i was able to put the old vvt solenoids back in after cleaning them because they were not the issue.

if you got new phasers and you have a scanner that can command them i can send you a YR that showes how to test them or what yo can do is at idle actuate each one and see if the engine changes the way it is running or stops. if you do the exhaust and it seems to noe do anything then the phaser the solenoid or all the way bac to the ecu

the las video shows hoe to test all the way back to the ecu. it is for a misfinre but the principle is the same

this one is for testing all the way back to the ecu and this one has a bad computer. but test test test before you plunge for anew computer as they hardly ever just fail.

like i said before my money is in the phaser-solenoid or a better chance of a bad conector or wires from the connector back to the ecu. this YT shows how to tes all teh way back to the ecu


if the phasers are new then doing a actuator command on them will tell you if the ecu can't command it then from the ecu to the phaser is not somehow getting the signal or the vvt or phaser is bad.
 

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