2011 Equinox LTZ Piston change

[blackmax100]

Hello, Used this forum and others many times, about time I pay it back.
We have a 2011 Equinox 2.4L LTZ AWD 144,000 miles with the oil consumption problem. I did a piston, timing and balance chain swap, with the engine in the car. No hoist access, and didn't take that much longer. Have not found a write up with the engine in car, so I will go thru a brief run down of the steps in the order I did them.

• Remove ground from battery
• Remove air intake shroud and engine cover
• Remove air cleaner box
• Remove ignition coils and wiring/plugs as required, mark them
• Remove spark plugs
• Raise vehicle
• Drain coolant
• Drain oil
• Remove oil dipstick tube, pull from pan
• Remove front tire passenger side
• Remove passenger side engine covers as needed
• Remove drive belt
• Remove drive belt tensioner
• Pull AC compressor off engine and secure against radiator shroud
• Use pressure relief valve and relieve fuel pressure (low pressure side)
• Disconnect fuel hose (Rubber) leave high pressure pump and rail in place
• Remove intake
• Remove exhaust shield
• Inspect exhaust manifold for cracks, cracked, order new one
• Spray exhaust manifold bolts
• Spray remaining exhaust bolts
• Remove valve cover & cover engine, keep it covered
• Remove exhaust manifold to catalyst nuts
• Take engine to TDC #1
• Remove timing chain
• Remove other wire connections and brackets as needed
• Remove head, with fuel pump, fuel rail, and exhaust header attached.
• Remove exhaust manifold & visually inspect head
• Remove exhaust, remove cross bar to remove catalyst, catalyst pulled from top
• Remove oil pan, head off, head on requires extra clearance.
• Remove rods/pistons
• Change pistons & install rings use ring tool
• Clean bore ridges with solvent and scotch brite pad
• Install pistons and rod bearings, new bolts Use piston sleeve tool
• Clean/scrape Head, block, Valve cover, Engine cover and oil pan
• Install oil pan using GM sealant
• Verify TDC #1
• Install head & exhaust manifold, new head bolts
• Remove balance shaft chain set
• Install new balance shaft chain set & new guides
• Install new timing chain set & new guides
• Install new seal and gasket on engine cover & install
• Install valve cover with new gaskets
• Install intake with new gaskets
• Install throttle body
• Install AC compressor
• Install oil dip stick tube
• Install drive belt with tensioner
• Install new exhaust system & new O2 sensors
• Add Oil
• Add Coolant
• Assemble rest of engine, reverse for the list above. triple check for missing connections, hose and electrical.

Special tools, E sockets #12 and smaller
Ring expander
Use the special ring compressor sleeve, normal compression tools failed for me. Got mine used on ebay for $41 to my door
O2 sensor socket
3/8" fuel hose tool
An oil filter socket, use it on the timing chain tensioner.

I also replaced the exhaust system complete, including the exhaust manifold which was cracked. That took about 2 hours, used AP cats, all aftermarket cats are ceramic substrate factory are metal.
My cat closest to the engine looked like the rocky mountains, defiantly burnt. Plus I had a cracked muffler.

I spent a lot of time messing around with the rings and the ring compressors I had, once I got the Kent-Moore EN-47836 tool they literally slid in with finger pressure.
New Timing and balance chain took a while, you can see everything, just takes extra time because you are working in the vehicle.
Intake was the worst to mess around with, if I did it again I would just zip tie the intake out of the way, no need to fully remove it.
I left the motor mounts attached the entire time. But note, the oil pan comes off easy without the head on the engine, once you put the head on, you will need to pry up slightly on the axle shaft housing to get the last bolt in, so put the pan on before the head.
I removed the exhaust manifold with the head, put it in separately, the cat closest to the engine needed to be removed from the top, easy with the head off.
Total time was 17 hours included the exhaust and my time messing around with the rings. I lost about 2 hours on the rings, and a couple more on the exhaust system. So for just the engine 13 ish is good.
I used ebay for most of the exhaust, once shipping was factored they were cheapest, Rock auto for just about everything else, and GM Parts for the pistons and Rings, I wanted to go enginetech for the pistons and rings, but they were not going to have stock for a while.
Used enginetech gasket set, and head bolts, felpro head gasket, cloytes for the chains and guides. Went with new chain tensioners, and O2 sensors
Cost on the exhaust was $764, manifold to tail pipe
Cost on the engine was $ 880
And about $110 in tools I didn't have, mostly Harbor Freight, this includes the $41 ebay ring sleeve.

I was getting the P0420 code before, no more. Rough idle is gone.
don't know about oil usage yet but the engine is noticeably better, not that it was bad before. but we went thru a quart per 1000 miles give or take.
The oil control rings were defiantly stuck. compression rings seemed okay.
No metal ridge, but make sure you clean the oil/carbon ridge before you install new pistons, brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad did the job nicely.
Rod bearings looked great, but replaced them anyways.
The pistons themselves looked identical, rings fit in either.
Cylinders actually looked pretty good, only a couple tiny zebra strips.

I am not a mechanic, just fix my vehicles myself, and help a few close friends. Have a very good selection of tools, mostly craftsman.
This was not hard by any stretch. But it is tedious, especially the chains.
Downloaded a factory manual off the net, and purchased a Chilton manual.

If you have specific questions I will do my best to answer. And if I remember I will update every oil change on the success or failure.

Local mechanics tell me this fix should be good for 60,000 miles give or take.

Hope this helps someobdy

 

[Shaggy]

Hello, Used this forum and others many times, about time I pay it back.
We have a 2011 Equinox 2.4L LTZ AWD 144,000 miles with the oil consumption problem. I did a piston, timing and balance chain swap, with the engine in the car. No hoist access, and didn't take that much longer. Have not found a write up with the engine in car, so I will go thru a brief run down of the steps in the order I did them.

• Remove ground from battery
• Remove air intake shroud and engine cover
• Remove air cleaner box
• Remove ignition coils and wiring/plugs as required, mark them
• Remove spark plugs
• Raise vehicle
• Drain coolant
• Drain oil
• Remove oil dipstick tube, pull from pan
• Remove front tire passenger side
• Remove passenger side engine covers as needed
• Remove drive belt
• Remove drive belt tensioner
• Pull AC compressor off engine and secure against radiator shroud
• Use pressure relief valve and relieve fuel pressure (low pressure side)
• Disconnect fuel hose (Rubber) leave high pressure pump and rail in place
• Remove intake
• Remove exhaust shield
• Inspect exhaust manifold for cracks, cracked, order new one
• Spray exhaust manifold bolts
• Spray remaining exhaust bolts
• Remove valve cover & cover engine, keep it covered
• Remove exhaust manifold to catalyst nuts
• Take engine to TDC #1
• Remove timing chain
• Remove other wire connections and brackets as needed
• Remove head, with fuel pump, fuel rail, and exhaust header attached.
• Remove exhaust manifold & visually inspect head
• Remove exhaust, remove cross bar to remove catalyst, catalyst pulled from top
• Remove oil pan, head off, head on requires extra clearance.
• Remove rods/pistons
• Change pistons & install rings use ring tool
• Clean bore ridges with solvent and scotch brite pad
• Install pistons and rod bearings, new bolts Use piston sleeve tool
• Clean/scrape Head, block, Valve cover, Engine cover and oil pan
• Install oil pan using GM sealant
• Verify TDC #1
• Install head & exhaust manifold, new head bolts
• Remove balance shaft chain set
• Install new balance shaft chain set & new guides
• Install new timing chain set & new guides
• Install new seal and gasket on engine cover & install
• Install valve cover with new gaskets
• Install intake with new gaskets
• Install throttle body
• Install AC compressor
• Install oil dip stick tube
• Install drive belt with tensioner
• Install new exhaust system & new O2 sensors
• Add Oil
• Add Coolant
• Assemble rest of engine, reverse for the list above. triple check for missing connections, hose and electrical.

Special tools, E sockets #12 and smaller
Ring expander
Use the special ring compressor sleeve, normal compression tools failed for me. Got mine used on ebay for $41 to my door
O2 sensor socket
3/8" fuel hose tool
An oil filter socket, use it on the timing chain tensioner.

I also replaced the exhaust system complete, including the exhaust manifold which was cracked. That took about 2 hours, used AP cats, all aftermarket cats are ceramic substrate factory are metal.
My cat closest to the engine looked like the rocky mountains, defiantly burnt. Plus I had a cracked muffler.

I spent a lot of time messing around with the rings and the ring compressors I had, once I got the Kent-Moore EN-47836 tool they literally slid in with finger pressure.
New Timing and balance chain took a while, you can see everything, just takes extra time because you are working in the vehicle.
Intake was the worst to mess around with, if I did it again I would just zip tie the intake out of the way, no need to fully remove it.
I left the motor mounts attached the entire time. But note, the oil pan comes off easy without the head on the engine, once you put the head on, you will need to pry up slightly on the axle shaft housing to get the last bolt in, so put the pan on before the head.
I removed the exhaust manifold with the head, put it in separately, the cat closest to the engine needed to be removed from the top, easy with the head off.
Total time was 17 hours included the exhaust and my time messing around with the rings. I lost about 2 hours on the rings, and a couple more on the exhaust system. So for just the engine 13 ish is good.
I used ebay for most of the exhaust, once shipping was factored they were cheapest, Rock auto for just about everything else, and GM Parts for the pistons and Rings, I wanted to go enginetech for the pistons and rings, but they were not going to have stock for a while.
Used enginetech gasket set, and head bolts, felpro head gasket, cloytes for the chains and guides. Went with new chain tensioners, and O2 sensors
Cost on the exhaust was $764, manifold to tail pipe
Cost on the engine was $ 880
And about $110 in tools I didn't have, mostly Harbor Freight, this includes the $41 ebay ring sleeve.

I was getting the P0420 code before, no more. Rough idle is gone.
don't know about oil usage yet but the engine is noticeably better, not that it was bad before. but we went thru a quart per 1000 miles give or take.
The oil control rings were defiantly stuck. compression rings seemed okay.
No metal ridge, but make sure you clean the oil/carbon ridge before you install new pistons, brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad did the job nicely.
Rod bearings looked great, but replaced them anyways.
The pistons themselves looked identical, rings fit in either.
Cylinders actually looked pretty good, only a couple tiny zebra strips.

I am not a mechanic, just fix my vehicles myself, and help a few close friends. Have a very good selection of tools, mostly craftsman.
This was not hard by any stretch. But it is tedious, especially the chains.
Downloaded a factory manual off the net, and purchased a Chilton manual.

If you have specific questions I will do my best to answer. And if I remember I will update every oil change on the success or failure.

Local mechanics tell me this fix should be good for 60,000 miles give or take.

Hope this helps someobdy

Awesome info! Thanks for posting it up!

 

[blackmax100]

Just wanted to shoot out an update
We are at 164,000 miles and then some

I did have to replace the main cat with a factory one, I got a P0420 code again about a year after the install, AP wanted me to get several hundred dollars worth of diagnostics, send that and the cat back to them, they would evaluate it once received and send me a replacement if they agreed their cat was the reason for the code. And on top of that, give them several weeks to figure their end out. Live and Learn.
Ordered a GM cat from E-bay, installed and the engine ran even smoother.

Otherwise oil usage is pretty normal, but does get dirty faster than I am used to. I change it about every 5000 miles, and usually have to add a pint during that time.
My Outback uses about the same amount of oil, a little more if I am honest.

Wife loves the vehicle, and if we have to do it again, I would just get a gasket set, and factory rings first, check the pistons for wear and only replace if required.

In hind sight, I am not sorry I did this, it was tedious, but overall pretty easy. If you feel comfortable doing a head gasket, then you got this.

 

[Dan-IN-MN]

Just wanted to shoot out an update
We are at 164,000 miles and then some

I did have to replace the main cat with a factory one, I got a P0420 code again about a year after the install, AP wanted me to get several hundred dollars worth of diagnostics, send that and the cat back to them, they would evaluate it once received and send me a replacement if they agreed their cat was the reason for the code. And on top of that, give them several weeks to figure their end out. Live and Learn.
Ordered a GM cat from E-bay, installed and the engine ran even smoother.

Otherwise oil usage is pretty normal, but does get dirty faster than I am used to. I change it about every 5000 miles, and usually have to add a pint during that time.
My Outback uses about the same amount of oil, a little more if I am honest.

Wife loves the vehicle, and if we have to do it again, I would just get a gasket set, and factory rings first, check the pistons for wear and only replace if required.

In hind sight, I am not sorry I did this, it was tedious, but overall pretty easy. If you feel comfortable doing a head gasket, then you got this.

Just bought a '13 AWD Equinox sight unseen. Had my brother-in-law check it over and drive it. Has it's flaws for being a 10+ old vehicle. It's from Vegas so no rust! Will be driving it to MN this summer.
How's the ring job holding up on your Equinox? Funny you mention having an Outback! I just got done re-ringing our '03 Forester. Yep, oil control rings stuck to the pistons!
I'm thinking that I'll have to re-ringing our Equinox sooner than later. Thank you for the tip on using the original pistons.

 

[blackmax100]

Just adding an update
We have put 60,000 on the vehicle since the rebuild. No oil consumption issues to date.
I am having timing chain issues (startup noise) despite using Cloyes brand components, so I will be doing some rework.
I did have to pull back the intake for another repair, I did notice some oil fouling in the #1 intake area, but hasn't affected the operation of the engine, at least not noticeably. I did not replace the valve seals during my original rebuild, perhaps I should have.

Looking back, this really was not a bad project, my biggest regret was messing around with the old style ring compressors during assembly. I wasted so much time on that.

 

[Dan-IN-MN]

Just adding an update
We have put 60,000 on the vehicle since the rebuild. No oil consumption issues to date.
I am having timing chain issues (startup noise) despite using Cloyes brand components, so I will be doing some rework.
I did have to pull back the intake for another repair, I did notice some oil fouling in the #1 intake area, but hasn't affected the operation of the engine, at least not noticeably. I did not replace the valve seals during my original rebuild, perhaps I should have.

Looking back, this really was not a bad project, my biggest regret was messing around with the old style ring compressors during assembly. I wasted so much time on that.

Thank you for the update!
Have you considered installing a catch can? Will be installing one on ours to keep the crap from entering the intake manifold and gather on the valves.
We ended up blowing the rear main seal last winter because of a plugged crankcase ventilation system.
My repair has gone from bad to worse! I replaced the timing components as a PM. I had forgotten to torque the balance shaft bolts correctly and the the exhaust shaft came out allowing the sprocket to come off of the shaft. The sprocket on the crankshaft got its teeth removed by the chain. I figured this out because I couldn't get heat. My water pump wasn't turning. I was working at a friend's shop when I had time and energy. Working tired has consequences!
Now I think I have bits from the sprocket in the balance shaft bearings because they're both difficult to turn. I might have to pull the engine again and deal with the bearing issue. I'm thinking the shafts should spin easily.

Dan

 

[blackmax100]

Thank you for the update!
Have you considered installing a catch can? Will be installing one on ours to keep the crap from entering the intake manifold and gather on the valves.
We ended up blowing the rear main seal last winter because of a plugged crankcase ventilation system.
My repair has gone from bad to worse! I replaced the timing components as a PM. I had forgotten to torque the balance shaft bolts correctly and the the exhaust shaft came out allowing the sprocket to come off of the shaft. The sprocket on the crankshaft got its teeth removed by the chain. I figured this out because I couldn't get heat. My water pump wasn't turning. I was working at a friend's shop when I had time and energy. Working tired has consequences!
Now I think I have bits from the sprocket in the balance shaft bearings because they're both difficult to turn. I might have to pull the engine again and deal with the bearing issue. I'm thinking the shafts should spin easily.

Dan

Dan, Yes the balance shafts should spin easily. Surprised that didn't make a pile of racket, I would have thought the changes would have gotten together somehow.

 

[blackmax100]

60,000 mile 6 year update:

I had to open the engine back up due to startup & run noise.
Timing chain guide was broken, the black one that sits on the right hand side without the tensioner. There were a couple pieces missing so I went into the oil pan as well.
Water pump was starting to drip, tackled that at the same time, also had a very minor head gasket coolant leak (External).
Decided while I was doing this to pull the pistons and see how the oil rings looked, as last time the were plugged.
We have been changing the oil every 6000 miles give or take, using Castrol Edge full synthetic high mileage with GM oil filters.

The rings looked great, not even a hint of plugging, I checked all 4.
Piston tops looked as they should, black with no build up, I did clean them up before reinstalling.
Water pump was easy with the head and front cover off, did that all from the top.
Valve seals took about 4 hours (My first time ever), they were easy.
Timing chain had pushed into the cover a little bit, enough for me to notice but not enough to warrant replacing it.

Project went off without too much difficulty, more tedious than hard.
Vehicle now sounds great again, we live in Wisconsin, the Equinox is a 2011 and the body is starting to show its age.
Hope to get 3~5 more years out of it.

In short, the oil burning issue is due to oil changes not happening frequently enough.
The timing chain issues the Ecotec's have seems to be more of a design problem than fresh oil issue IMHO.