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The OEM replacement is $20 on Amazon.

On your air filter box there will be a large tube that passes under the engine. If you have that and the blocked PCV orifice problem, moisture can build up in that tube and cause problems at startup when the secondary air runs for approximately 30 seconds.

Does your 2013 have secondary air?

Short video of the PCV valve at idle. When I disconnect, you can hear the blow by. Also check out the fresh air tube, which is clean.

One of the reasons behind using a PCV valve vs the orifice is the PCV valve prevents moisture buildup in the fresh air tube. The orifice allows bidirectional airflow so at certain times you could have blowby flowing out the fresh air tube. Maybe GM thinks that that’s OK, but anyonethat lives up...

I have 2 in the neighborhood that have this installed I’m going to check on them tomorrow. I just texted the driver and he said everything’s fine but we’ll see.

Yes. Have several on different years, one for 2 years. It’s been thoroughly tested before I recommended it to anybody. The set up does not vent, so there is no unmetered air. When you went back to stock, how did you do that? Did you get rid of the Tee tapped into the brake booster?

Camshaft sensors. Oil control valves for the actuators. Are you running low on oil or behind on oil changes? It happens. If that’s the case, I can recommend.

What happened? Is it fixed?

That’s correct. If the orifice is blocked, the tiny fresh air tube is inhaling fresh air and exhaling blowby at the same time. When the hot blowby meets the cool fresh air you get moisture that can be sucked back into the engine or freeze the tube. Not good. You also build pressure depending on...

Hi. The mod is on several 2.4s I keep in contact with. No one has reported any issues or check engine lights. The one I own has been on for 30K. Current oil consumption 1qt/5k. Was 1qt every 1k. No moisture issues in the fresh air tube. This is what the catch can has in it after 5K during the...

Is there a way to test the solenoid like disconnect it? See if the noise goes away?

Check for moisture in the fresh air PCV tube on the passenger side of the airbox. If you take that out and water comes out you’re blocked. That blockage leads to a host of problems including severe oil consumption and fouled oil.

Hey, did you figure it out? I had a thud in the back and it turned out to be a broken rear sway bar end link.

The timing chain is loose. There was a guide that was preventing the timing chain from doing what it’s doing. Clearly that was eaten up and now it’s eating up the valve cover. That rattle has been going on for a long time.

Have you cleaned out the PCV orifice?

A combination of direct injection and the PCV orifice is to blame for that chipped valve.

Have you resolved the blocked PCV orifice issue? If you pull out your fresh air PCV tube on the air intake box is it full of water?

Wheel bearings/hubs don’t last forever so it’s just probably a failure. It got loose hit a pothole somewhere something. Timken or SKF our top-of-the-line. I’ve had good luck with Detroit axle wheel bearings on a budget. You don’t have to replace as a pair.

Smashing the rotors to get them off can sometimes damage old hubs or the speed sensor which would result in traction control errors and limp mode. It’s good you didn’t try to relentlessly start because that can burn up the starter. Give it a rest. Leave it on a battery charger. Try to start it...