Looking to Run 12V Cable from Interior to Battery

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DefinitelyNotCory

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I have a 2021 Equinox LT. I am looking to run a 12V power cable from the interior of the car to the battery to power a ham radio setup. Does anyone have any experience in running such a cable? I am looking to use an existing hole or gasket... I really don't want to drill a hole. Any help or ideas would be appreciated!
 

Moonwink

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I just had a shop run wires from the taillights to the front bumper so I can tow my Malibu behind my motorhome and have the taillights work with the motorhome taillights. They ran the wire underneath and wire-tied them to some of the many tubes running under there from the engine compartment to the trunk. I just got done following up by using some stainless tie-wire to supplement the wire-ties that are sure to age-out and crack over time. I didn't want to find those wires dangling and dragging. You could follow the same route with your wire.
 

RedEq

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I am interested in doing the same in my '24 Premier. Please let us know what you come up with. I will not be doing mine any time soon, but I will reply when I do.

I also would like to know the preferred way to get power under the hood. The positive side has a complicated power distribution gizmo on it, and there seems to be some sensing wires attached to the battery. It seems we should hook up in a way that ensures the power we draw is being measured. And I ask because last summer a group of us were installing radios temporarily in several vehicles for an event. One fellow was putting his radio in a Ford Transit, which has a similarly complicated battery setup, and fried the truck big-time. It got hauled away on a roll-back.
 

rawhite318

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I have a 2021 Equinox LT. I am looking to run a 12V power cable from the interior of the car to the battery to power a ham radio setup. Does anyone have any experience in running such a cable? I am looking to use an existing hole or gasket... I really don't want to drill a hole. Any help or ideas would be appreciated!
I can help you out. I have a 2018 and from what I understand they are pretty much the same. On the drivers side under the dash behind the carpet there is a pretty big rubber grommet about 2”X4” if i remember right. If it’s exactly like mine you can pull it out a little BUT when you put it back in spot make sure it’s seated well. On the other side of the firewall you can see the grommet but if you can reach it, it will be tight. I couldn’t so i tied a small rope to the end of a metal hanger that I straighten out. However you puncture the grommet please make sure of two things. 1 don’t nick a wire. You are really close to all the wires that run the vehicle but if you are careful it shouldn’t be a problem. 2 don’t make the hole in the grommet larger than it needs to be. If possible make it small enough that when you pull through the wire it will seal it up. I ran a 0/1 gauge with no problems at all just a couple of days ago.
 

rawhite318

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I am interested in doing the same in my '24 Premier. Please let us know what you come up with. I will not be doing mine any time soon, but I will reply when I do.

I also would like to know the preferred way to get power under the hood. The positive side has a complicated power distribution gizmo on it, and there seems to be some sensing wires attached to the battery. It seems we should hook up in a way that ensures the power we draw is being measured. And I ask because last summer a group of us were installing radios temporarily in several vehicles for an event. One fellow was putting his radio in a Ford Transit, which has a similarly complicated battery setup, and fried the truck big-time. It got hauled away on a roll-back.
Really the safest way to get power under your hood is with a mm-vc1 from mechman altertaters. Others make it for a little cheaper but mechman sells them with a plug that when plugged in will make your car ignore that fact that you’re controlling the alternator and not it. There isn’t any complicated with the positive side of the battery. The negative side however is what tells your car what the voltage is. Older vehicles usually stay at 14 to 14.5 volts. Chevy decided to set it for what you need in the moment. I kinda freaked out when i sew my voltmeter in the cluster reading 12.3v but found out later it was normal for the way they set the car up
The vc1 will go to 15 volts but don’t run it that high or your Chevy will end up like that ford transit. Keep it around 14 or 14.2. Third gen and above have a 130amp alternator and I think some 2nd gen as well so the power is already there but the car wont give it to you unless you make it.
 

rawhite318

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Cringing at all this. There are unused fuse slots in the under dash fuse box meant specifically for adding equipment. No need to butcher anything.
Big Papi is right. If your using a weak ham radio just tap off off the fuse box. Problem is ham radios use more power the farther they reach out. If you’re going to use the fuse box make sure that you fuse it properly. If you try and pull too much amps through a 18 gauge wire it will melt.
Big Papi it can be cringe if you don’t know what you’re doing but there isn’t anything to it. I’ve installed all kinds of stuff in many different vehicles for half my life and don’t believe in doing stuff half ass. I won’t risk it coming back to fix something that if done right a problem wouldn’t have happened. If you brought it to an installer there are two way to handle it. Either drill a hole with a firewall grommet or the way I described.
 

bearbait

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I basically did what RAWHITE318 mentioned . I purchased a new Nox in 2008 and the radio volume was anemic. Called Crutchfield and bought amp and speakers. The power cable was I believe a #10 cable with inline fuse. Found large rubber grommet under driver side dash and poked a SMALL hole and pulled cable thru. You could put a dab of silicone on it to be safe. Never had a problem with it except my hearing is bad! LOL
 

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