Fix or trade?

[scchevelle468]

I have a 2014 equinox LTZ four-cylinder that has everything but navigation with 208,000 miles on it. I purchased it when it had 87,000 miles on it. It was 4 years old at that time.

Everything on this car is still in very good shape. It has the leather interior and the paint color is diamond white. Everything inside the car except for one little spot is almost as it was the day was manufactured. There are very few scuffs or marks on the car with exception of the front nose because of rocks and bugs and junk off the road.

Now here’s my question for you guys…. The bottom end rattles quite a lot at start up no matter whether it’s hot or cold. I also hear what appears to be the piston skirts rattling in the bore’s as well.
I have used a normal weight oil to try and stop it with no success, so I went back to the 0W-20.

Considering I owe just shy of $4000 on this car and that’s more than what it’s really worth right now, Would I be better off to find a very very low mileage salvaged engine and transmission with a warranty and put in this car, or should I bite the bullet, take the hit, and get something else?

Thoughts, ideas?

Thank you for your constructive input.

 

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I had a 2011 that rattled on cold start, oil bleed off in Valve train in a lot of 'em and put up with it 'till 2019 I traded in on a new quiet one. So...moral of the story....ALWAYS check out a Vehicle Engine THOROUGHLY before buy'n.

 

[corvairbob]

i can't say what you should do but if the car is in good shape like your saying and you lik eit it just may be work ginding a good drivetrani and installing that. if you rhandy and have a few guddys that are handy you can do it yourself in a day or 2 and save on the labor. but for a few after the job is done beers. i pulled the engine on my girls 2013 and rebuilt it for like 500$ but she did not have any money and i did not want to put a new drivie tranin in her car. but you might be able to get a goo reman for like 1500$ and then take the tranny to a local rebuilder and get that rebuilt and the reman and install them and be good to go for another 5 years or so. the reman then now with te bugs taken care of.

if it was my suv i would do that over the cost of a new car and then adding the 4k you still owe. but then again i have the tools and knowhow on doing that. but if your handy there are tons of YT's to learn how to pull and engine. look for the clayway for pulling out the top much easier than lifting the body and then dropping the cradle and hauling that out from under the car. good luck to you sir.

 

[superd]

I also have a 2013....and I currently have the head off and replacing and lapping valves. Just curious, what did your rebuild consist of? Any input is appreciated.

 

[scchevelle468]

So, the second week in August, with my Equinox now having 244,500 miles on it, I went ahead and pulled the trigger and purchased a 2016 Equinox 2.4L, Federal emissions build, with 40,563 miles on it and an accompanying transmission with 56,000 miles on it, with a six month warranty. I may have paid a little too much but together it was $3200. It cost me $1500 labor to get it installed. I went ahead and upgraded to a brand new air conditioning compressor since mine was making some noise. I received a call halfway through the install that my exhaust manifold was cracked and the one on the 2016 engine would not hook up properly a 2014 exhaust. So I ended up with a brand new manifold. I then received a text for me to call the shop. They then told me that the catalytic converters honeycomb was falling apart, and my oxygen sensor was burned up.
So, I ended up spending an extra $100 on a new exhaust manifold and an additional $800 on a new catalytic converter and exhaust elbow with flex extension, and $150 on 2, O2 sensors.
They also installed all brand new dex cool equivalent coolant, fresh oil and filter, and all brand new transmission fluid.
I asked them while the engine was sitting right there in front of us on the cradle if they thought we should change any of the sensors since there was such easy access, and they said no, the engine only had 40,000 miles on it, it should not be a problem.

I travelled back-and-forth to work and used it running around town for 5 days.
Guess what failed on the sixth day? One of my camshaft position sensors, which is on the back of the engine, and it is almost impossible to get to without laying across the front of the car over the engine! That is one of the two sensors that I ask them if we should change since the engine was directly in front of us. At that time it would’ve taken a grand total of five minutes to change both sensors.
Now, the last time I changed the rear sensor, it took me almost 2 hours, because my arm would not fit back there and clear all of the wiring and the bracketry, and I dropped my socket about five times.

Moral of the story is, insist on new proximity sensors.

 

[scchevelle468]

Here is another update on this engine. Today, I’m replacing both the intake and exhaust variable valve timing solenoid’s, because one of those has failed as well and is throwing a check engine light and the code for them.
And since it has been apart, the cradle dropped, and the CV axles pulled, one of those is starting to rattle now too and I am leaving tomorrow on a 9 day, 2,500 mile trip!