2015 2.4l... burning oil

[daneast]

We have a 2015, 2.4l we bought new. It was always serviced by the dealer every 3k miles. It only has 75k miles on it, and it is burning about a quart of oil every 300 miles. We first noticed the problem about a year ago. A few weeks after the dealership changed the oil I noticed the camshaft / rocker arms sounded like they were knocking. I checked the oil and it didn't even show on the dipstick. I was pretty ticked that the dealer shorted us a full quart of oil. I added a quart, then a few weeks later, same thing. That's when I started searching and became aware of the engineering flaw with these engines.

So we religiously watched the oil level, keeping a list of each time we added oil. We're now adding a quart about every 300 miles. I changed the spark plugs, and the #3 was covered in oil. It's now smoking when the RPMs are high (like downshifting to accelerate onto the interstate) it's blowing some smoke.

I know there is no recall on the 2015, and our state doesn't appear to have a class action suite at this time. Checked with the dealer today, and they said nope, it's not under warranty and there aren't any special provisions for this issue.

Is it usually just one piston that goes bad? I kind of assumed they all were burning oil equally due to the poorly designed pistons / rings.

I just finished a complete rebuild of a 1.6l 16v engine for my Samurai (also rebuilt the transmission when I swapped it in), but looking over this engine it may be more than I can do myself. That serpentine timing chain doesn't look fun to mess with.

Anyways, what are our options? Doesn't sound like anyone is getting Chevy to pay up on these design flaws. Any oils or additives that reduce the issue? Is it okay to just burn away the oil and as long as it's kept topped off it'll go indefinitely?
Thanks.

 

[SE77]

We have a 2015, 2.4l we bought new. It was always serviced by the dealer every 3k miles. It only has 75k miles on it, and it is burning about a quart of oil every 300 miles. We first noticed the problem about a year ago. A few weeks after the dealership changed the oil I noticed the camshaft / rocker arms sounded like they were knocking. I checked the oil and it didn't even show on the dipstick. I was pretty ticked that the dealer shorted us a full quart of oil. I added a quart, then a few weeks later, same thing. That's when I started searching and became aware of the engineering flaw with these engines.

So we religiously watched the oil level, keeping a list of each time we added oil. We're now adding a quart about every 300 miles. I changed the spark plugs, and the #3 was covered in oil. It's now smoking when the RPMs are high (like downshifting to accelerate onto the interstate) it's blowing some smoke.

I know there is no recall on the 2015, and our state doesn't appear to have a class action suite at this time. Checked with the dealer today, and they said nope, it's not under warranty and there aren't any special provisions for this issue.

Is it usually just one piston that goes bad? I kind of assumed they all were burning oil equally due to the poorly designed pistons / rings.

I just finished a complete rebuild of a 1.6l 16v engine for my Samurai (also rebuilt the transmission when I swapped it in), but looking over this engine it may be more than I can do myself. That serpentine timing chain doesn't look fun to mess with.

Anyways, what are our options? Doesn't sound like anyone is getting Chevy to pay up on these design flaws. Any oils or additives that reduce the issue? Is it okay to just burn away the oil and as long as it's kept topped off it'll go indefinitely?
Thanks.

Interesting.. I can't say I'm surprised about the response you got from the Stealership, they are a bunch of criminals. I know this generation is bad for rear main seals going and cam sensors but, the one leaking piston is new to me. My BEST advice is to land yourself a local, private mechanic that will allow you to be around while he/she works and charge you a decent price. I'm not sure how hard they are to come across in your neck of the woods but mine has been a God-send for over ten years now. We go over stuff together and he's honest with me. Instead of taking it to the Stealership and forking over thousands and thousands for them to "diagnose" it now that theres apparently "no warranty", really try to find a private mechanic. Hope this helps.

 

[NOX4ME]

Typical of the PCV being clogged. The GM solution is to remove the intake plenum then unclog the PCV orifice -- a temporary fix if any. I devised a repair that reduces the crankcase pressure -- without compromising the closed emissions system. I've attached a video I made that shows the modifications.

 

[SE77]

Typical of the PCV being clogged. The GM solution is to remove the intake plenum then unclog the PCV orifice -- a temporary fix if any. I devised a repair that reduces the crankcase pressure -- without compromising the closed emissions system. I've attached a video I made that shows the modifications.

Why not skip all that and just install a catch can?

 

[NOX4ME]

A catch can will not relieve pressure.

 

[swisscheese]

I have had good success on my 2013 (132k) by switching away from synthetic oil to a 10/40 high mileage syn blend oil. I went from 3+ qts every 5k miles to 1 qt every 3k miles. Haven’t noticed any drop in gas mileage or engine sounds. Not having to check your oil levels. Every few days is a blessing in itself. Good luck. Try to get this under control because the next thing to go it will be your catalytic converter from all the oil plugging it up

 

[SE77]

A catch can will not relieve pressure.

It literally prevents all the crud that clogs the pcv from even getting in there.

 

[SE77]

I have had good success on my 2013 (132k) by switching away from synthetic oil to a 10/40 high mileage syn blend oil. I went from 3+ qts every 5k miles to 1 qt every 3k miles. Haven’t noticed any drop in gas mileage or engine sounds. Not having to check your oil levels. Every few days is a blessing in itself. Good luck. Try to get this under control because the next thing to go it will be your catalytic converter from all the oil plugging it up

Changing the type of oil you use has nothing to do with a clogged pcv. You need a catch can to prevent garbage from getting in there and clogging everything up. You also need a piston ring kit as the low tension rings are the main cause of the excessive oil consumption.

 

[swisscheese]

Changing the type of oil you use has nothing to do with a clogged pcv. You need a catch can to prevent garbage from getting in there and clogging everything up. You also need a piston ring kit as the low tension rings are the main cause of the excessive oil consumption.

He did say he was using 1 quart of oil every 300 miles so yes changing your oil will make a difference

 

[SE77]

He did say he was using 1 quart of oil every 300 miles so yes changing your oil will make a difference

On what jovian moon does changing your oil correct an oil consumption issue? Do you also continuously bail out your sinking boat instead of patching the hole?

 

[GirlDriver]

We have a 2015, 2.4l we bought new. It was always serviced by the dealer every 3k miles. It only has 75k miles on it, and it is burning about a quart of oil every 300 miles. We first noticed the problem about a year ago. A few weeks after the dealership changed the oil I noticed the camshaft / rocker arms sounded like they were knocking. I checked the oil and it didn't even show on the dipstick. I was pretty ticked that the dealer shorted us a full quart of oil. I added a quart, then a few weeks later, same thing. That's when I started searching and became aware of the engineering flaw with these engines.

So we religiously watched the oil level, keeping a list of each time we added oil. We're now adding a quart about every 300 miles. I changed the spark plugs, and the #3 was covered in oil. It's now smoking when the RPMs are high (like downshifting to accelerate onto the interstate) it's blowing some smoke.

I know there is no recall on the 2015, and our state doesn't appear to have a class action suite at this time. Checked with the dealer today, and they said nope, it's not under warranty and there aren't any special provisions for this issue.

Is it usually just one piston that goes bad? I kind of assumed they all were burning oil equally due to the poorly designed pistons / rings.

I just finished a complete rebuild of a 1.6l 16v engine for my Samurai (also rebuilt the transmission when I swapped it in), but looking over this engine it may be more than I can do myself. That serpentine timing chain doesn't look fun to mess with.

Anyways, what are our options? Doesn't sound like anyone is getting Chevy to pay up on these design flaws. Any oils or additives that reduce the issue? Is it okay to just burn away the oil and as long as it's kept topped off it'll go indefinitely?
Thanks.

I have been all over the place researching this oil burning. It's not just GM, it's lots of makers. It's the jacked piston rings they knew were jacked and kept using.

It's also partly the GDI system - also in other makes.

It's also partly the PCV system.

There's a fella on this forum who took the time to put this pdf I attached together and it is an incredible resource.

If you're not using full synthetic you should be. The best oil via Farm Project on Youtube is AMSoil Signature, you can check out his video competition. Penzoil Platinum is also really good.

CRC GDI Intake Valve cleaner is a must too. You can use it every 1,000 miles til you're satisfied with the tops of the valves being clean. I plan on using it every 3,000 - 5,000 miles from now on.

Lots of owners swear by Barryman's in the oil before oil changes. Others ues YamaLube, which I think can go in the gas tank also.

I think those are the top 2.

Look at the pdf. Such GREAT info in it.

For me, the intake manifold kit with all the extras is only $97 on the wholesale GM dealership sites. If I can get help, I'm doing it and just keeping it clean with the Intake cleaner mentioned above.

In the air intake manifold there are ports or something in the runner that get clogged up with the pin hole PCV orifice. The runners can get build up on them, faster and easier to replace the dumb thing than clean it all and replace the gaskets.

I'm waiting for the author of the pdf to answer me regarding changing out the valve cover - that's only $100 too. Maybe he'll be on the forum and see your post and respond. You'll see in the valve cover there are some kind of baffles and they get dirty too. If I were to take the cover apart and clean those, I don't know how to get them back in per specifications. The baffles are made of a nylon.

So there ya go. And the pressure release oil cap the others here mentions - why not?

Good luck.

 

[NOX4ME]

We have a 2015, 2.4l we bought new. It was always serviced by the dealer every 3k miles. It only has 75k miles on it, and it is burning about a quart of oil every 300 miles. We first noticed the problem about a year ago. A few weeks after the dealership changed the oil I noticed the camshaft / rocker arms sounded like they were knocking. I checked the oil and it didn't even show on the dipstick. I was pretty ticked that the dealer shorted us a full quart of oil. I added a quart, then a few weeks later, same thing. That's when I started searching and became aware of the engineering flaw with these engines.

So we religiously watched the oil level, keeping a list of each time we added oil. We're now adding a quart about every 300 miles. I changed the spark plugs, and the #3 was covered in oil. It's now smoking when the RPMs are high (like downshifting to accelerate onto the interstate) it's blowing some smoke.

I know there is no recall on the 2015, and our state doesn't appear to have a class action suite at this time. Checked with the dealer today, and they said nope, it's not under warranty and there aren't any special provisions for this issue.

Is it usually just one piston that goes bad? I kind of assumed they all were burning oil equally due to the poorly designed pistons / rings.

I just finished a complete rebuild of a 1.6l 16v engine for my Samurai (also rebuilt the transmission when I swapped it in), but looking over this engine it may be more than I can do myself. That serpentine timing chain doesn't look fun to mess with.

Anyways, what are our options? Doesn't sound like anyone is getting Chevy to pay up on these design flaws. Any oils or additives that reduce the issue? Is it okay to just burn away the oil and as long as it's kept topped off it'll go indefinitely?
Thanks.

I developed this modification that reduced crankcase pressure, and stopped oil usage.

 

[Travis Bickle]

I have been all over the place researching this oil burning. It's not just GM, it's lots of makers. It's the jacked piston rings they knew were jacked and kept using.

It's also partly the GDI system - also in other makes.

It's also partly the PCV system.

There's a fella on this forum who took the time to put this pdf I attached together and it is an incredible resource.

If you're not using full synthetic you should be. The best oil via Farm Project on Youtube is AMSoil Signature, you can check out his video competition. Penzoil Platinum is also really good.

CRC GDI Intake Valve cleaner is a must too. You can use it every 1,000 miles til you're satisfied with the tops of the valves being clean. I plan on using it every 3,000 - 5,000 miles from now on.

Lots of owners swear by Barryman's in the oil before oil changes. Others ues YamaLube, which I think can go in the gas tank also.

I think those are the top 2.

Look at the pdf. Such GREAT info in it.

For me, the intake manifold kit with all the extras is only $97 on the wholesale GM dealership sites. If I can get help, I'm doing it and just keeping it clean with the Intake cleaner mentioned above.

In the air intake manifold there are ports or something in the runner that get clogged up with the pin hole PCV orifice. The runners can get build up on them, faster and easier to replace the dumb thing than clean it all and replace the gaskets.

I'm waiting for the author of the pdf to answer me regarding changing out the valve cover - that's only $100 too. Maybe he'll be on the forum and see your post and respond. You'll see in the valve cover there are some kind of baffles and they get dirty too. If I were to take the cover apart and clean those, I don't know how to get them back in per specifications. The baffles are made of a nylon.

So there ya go. And the pressure release oil cap the others here mentions - why not?

Good luck.

I just want to say, that PDF is gold, it is the single best resource I have yet found anywhere that explains EXACTLY how the PCV system in these engines works, in every detail.

It would be great to have it tacked/stickied somewhere, if possible. It is a valuable resource!

 

[Deb Bobo]

We have a 2015, 2.4l we bought new. It was always serviced by the dealer every 3k miles. It only has 75k miles on it, and it is burning about a quart of oil every 300 miles. We first noticed the problem about a year ago. A few weeks after the dealership changed the oil I noticed the camshaft / rocker arms sounded like they were knocking. I checked the oil and it didn't even show on the dipstick. I was pretty ticked that the dealer shorted us a full quart of oil. I added a quart, then a few weeks later, same thing. That's when I started searching and became aware of the engineering flaw with these engines.

So we religiously watched the oil level, keeping a list of each time we added oil. We're now adding a quart about every 300 miles. I changed the spark plugs, and the #3 was covered in oil. It's now smoking when the RPMs are high (like downshifting to accelerate onto the interstate) it's blowing some smoke.

I know there is no recall on the 2015, and our state doesn't appear to have a class action suite at this time. Checked with the dealer today, and they said nope, it's not under warranty and there aren't any special provisions for this issue.

Is it usually just one piston that goes bad? I kind of assumed they all were burning oil equally due to the poorly designed pistons / rings.

I just finished a complete rebuild of a 1.6l 16v engine for my Samurai (also rebuilt the transmission when I swapped it in), but looking over this engine it may be more than I can do myself. That serpentine timing chain doesn't look fun to mess with.

Anyways, what are our options? Doesn't sound like anyone is getting Chevy to pay up on these design flaws. Any oils or additives that reduce the issue? Is it okay to just burn away the oil and as long as it's kept topped off it'll go indefinitely?
Thanks.

I’m in the same boat. I, however, use a local mechanic. He told me I need a new engine. How do we start a class action? I need to get a new car, but I’m thinking mine will have no trade in value and I would never try to sell it in this condition.

 

[cpscoachtech]

I have had good success on my 2013 (132k) by switching away from synthetic oil to a 10/40 high mileage syn blend oil. I went from 3+ qts every 5k miles to 1 qt every 3k miles. Haven’t noticed any drop in gas mileage or engine sounds. Not having to check your oil levels. Every few days is a blessing in itself. Good luck. Try to get this under control because the next thing to go it will be your catalytic converter from all the oil plugging it up

Off topic but concerns this comment. I tried Synthetic oil in all my older vehicles and oil consumption was sky high on all of them. I was saddened by this.

 

[daneast]

Giving an update on this since the thread was just bumped. Not long after my original post (June 2023) I tried EPR Engine Performance Restoration oil additive, and this really made a difference for a while. We went from having to add oil every 300 miles to going a couple thousand on a change. What I did was change the oil using some inexpensive Walmart oil, along with the the EPR additive. Ran the engine for the amount of time it said at full temperature (like 30 minutes or something like that) then did a full oil change again. I did that again when the next oil change was due, and after that second time it gradually starting burning oil again. I think around a quart per 500-700 or so.
I think what this did was get the carbon build up off the rings a bit, because it was burning so much oil it was depositing everywhere and then REALLY burning the oil. This stuff bought us a little time by breaking down the extreme amounts around the rings.

Then in the winter, it was a very cold day (like 15 F) driving on the interstate and all of a sudden the engine runs really rough with no power. Limped home, parked it, checked compression and found #3 (the one with the bad oil on the spark plug in my first post) had zero compression. I knew it was serious, and so we bought a new (NON-CHEVY NON-GM) vehicle.

I pulled the engine, found that one of the #3 exhaust valves had broken a piece off. I have NEVER seen valves with so much carbon build up on the back. It was 3/8" thick, no exaggeration. I rebuilt the engine with better rings, new valves, all new timing stuff, etc (didn't bother with the crank bearings - engine only has 80k on it), and we use it as a backup vehicle.

Still hoping GM / Chevy will own up to this, and I'll send them a big fat bill.

No one builds perfect cars or engines, but at least most other companies are better about facing up to their defective designs than GM.