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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Andersg" data-source="post: 21969" data-attributes="member: 8018">Here is the process that i photo documented for my own benefit.  Note the crankshaft timing gear shows pre and post tensioner release with the slack showing to the exhaust side of the crankshaft on the before and the slack being taken up after.  There are many videos out there but this one detail is not apparent in most and it is super critical.  The other that shows on some is the need to put a wrench on the exhaust cam and rotate it slightly clockwise to get the cam shaft gear aligned to the pin position.  Once you get that to pop on the end of the cam, you release the tension on the wrench and the chain is very tight from exhaust mark to the intake mark.  All of that with number one at TDC on exhaust stroke so the intake lobes are really in contact with the intake valves on number one but not yet enough to open the valves as that happens immediately on the downstroke for intake of fuel/air as the engine rotates.  This job can be done by removing the air filter housing etc on the top and the passenger tire and some of the wheel well trim however i found it much easier if i supported the engine with a jack and block of wood and removed passenger side motor mount assembly.  The rear engine mount (drive axle passes through it) and the transmission do the majority of the work when supporting the engine but the jack allows you ability to align the access hole with the pulley tensioner and then everything else is more visible.  Good luck! Will keep you posted on the road testing.In the photos, note the rag stuffed into the small access to the oil pan below the crankshaft.  Highly recommend this precaution or something will land in there and you are now dropping the oil pan too.</blockquote>

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