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Message: <blockquote data-quote="daneast" data-source="post: 25894" data-attributes="member: 6666">Giving an update on this since the thread was just bumped. Not long after my original post (June 2023) I tried EPR Engine Performance Restoration oil additive, and this really made a difference for a while. We went from having to add oil every 300 miles to going a couple thousand on a change. What I did was change the oil using some inexpensive Walmart oil, along with the the EPR additive. Ran the engine for the amount of time it said at full temperature (like 30 minutes or something like that) then did a full oil change again.  I did that again when the next oil change was due, and after that second time it gradually starting burning oil again. I think around a quart per 500-700 or so.I think what this did was get the carbon build up off the rings a bit, because it was burning so much oil it was depositing everywhere and then REALLY burning the oil. This stuff bought us a little time by breaking down the extreme amounts around the rings.Then in the winter, it was a very cold day (like 15 F) driving on the interstate and all of a sudden the engine runs really rough with no power. Limped home, parked it, checked compression and found #3 (the one with the bad oil on the spark plug in my first post) had zero compression. I knew it was serious, and so we bought a new (NON-CHEVY NON-GM) vehicle.I pulled the engine, found that one of the #3 exhaust valves had broken a piece off. I have NEVER seen valves with so much carbon build up on the back. It was 3/8" thick, no exaggeration. I rebuilt the engine with better rings, new valves, all new timing stuff, etc (didn't bother with the crank bearings - engine only has 80k on it), and we use it as a backup vehicle.Still hoping GM / Chevy will own up to this, and I'll send them a big fat bill.No one builds perfect cars or engines, but at least most other companies are better about facing up to their defective designs than GM.</blockquote>

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