2014 2.4 CV axle replacement questions.

[Ed.H]

Good Evening members. I'm new to your site and I am looking for some knowledge. Let me say in advance I greatly appreciate any assistance and information that you can send my way.
My issue is with my 2014 LT (2.4).Front wheel drive 131.000 Miles
I have been hearing some noise coming from the right front when braking all summer and each time I would pull the brakes off and clean things up with light sanding and CRC anti squeak only to have it come back worse each time. Next I replaced rotor and pads (both sides) and bang less then a month and the noise is back. So I finally got around to putting it up on my brothers lift after I started hearing CV axle noise.
I found both CV axles were bad along with the lower ball joints. I'm also doing both front hubs while I have it in the air. The Main issue is finding the CV axles..None of the sites I've looked at show the passenger side axle as being longer with the bracket and bearing attached like my vehicle has. I've even tried looking it up as a separate intermediate shaft but none come back as being for my vehicle. I would really rather not got to dealer for this part.($$$$) Has anyone done this job? If so how did the passenger side come, as one long peice or a short CV axle plus an intermediate with the bearing. Thanks again for any assistance.

 

[Itskontakt]

There’s definitely a separate intermediate shaft BUT you shouldn’t need that unless you’re having issues with the bearing. Just the axle and you should be good to go. If you want to give the intermediate shaft a go as well. Try rockauto.com definitely on there. Haven’t done this job on a equinox but I’ve done it on similar setup vehicles. Possibly a GM as well but can’t 100% remember.

Also as a side note the anti squeak really doesn’t work too well, if you don’t have ceramic pads and new hardware that’s where I would be leaning. I’ve saw some cars where a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly could cause the rotor to have play to cause it to scrape on the caliper bracket a little as well. Could have a similar effect with brake pads.

 

[Ed.H]

Itskontakt Thanks for the reply.
My thought was I planned on doing everything on both sides while I had it on the lift. Hubs
CV axles /intermediate shaft/ all ball joints /tie rods/ end links /Brakes roters and pads./ everything but the struts..that way I'll be good untill at least 200,000.. I'll check out rock auto for the intermediate. thanks again

 

[Itskontakt]

Itskontakt Thanks for the reply.
My thought was I planned on doing everything on both sides while I had it on the lift. Hubs
CV axles /intermediate shaft/ all ball joints /tie rods/ end links /Brakes roters and pads./ everything but the struts..that way I'll be good untill at least 200,000.. I'll check out rock auto for the intermediate. thanks again

Itskontakt Thanks for the reply.
My thought was I planned on doing everything on both sides while I had it on the lift. Hubs
CV axles /intermediate shaft/ all ball joints /tie rods/ end links /Brakes roters and pads./ everything but the struts..that way I'll be good untill at least 200,000.. I'll check out rock auto for the intermediate. thanks again

You’re welcome! I would suggest going ahead and replacing the struts while you’re in there. Atleast the front pair, you’ll have more than enough of the front end torn down as is for the other repairs. Not sure if it’s 3 bolts on top or 1 ( I don’t own a equinox but have fixed a few as well as other GM cars.) just something to consider. And a time saver down the line because you’ll be right back in that same area tearing down again!

 

[Ed.H]

Yeah that does make sence..everything will be off and out of the way

 

[Itskontakt]

Yeah that does make sence..everything will be off and out of the way

Yeah and depending on how you tackle the ball joint the strut to knuckle bolts may have to come out anyways!

 

[Ed.H]

I might just replace the complete arm assembly that way the bushing will be new also

 

[Itskontakt]

I might just replace the complete arm assembly that way the bushing will be new also

If you’re going for 200,000 miles I definitely would. And while your at it. May I suggest tie rod ends as well. That and an alignment after all that work and I bet it’ll drive smooth as glass! And the steering/handling will be just as good as new!

 

[Ed.H]

thats definitely going to be the plan

 

[Ed.H]

Im currently purchasing all of the parts for this job. Can anyone tell me the part number for the Drivers side CV Axle seal. I'm assuming there is one, I found the intermediate shaft seal but Im having a problem finding the other side. I want to haved all of my parts layed out and ready to go before I put it on the lift and start tearing it apart.

 

[TAC]

New here. See this is a year old a
did you ever get the seal number for the right side. My vin shows a 6t45 transmission. Thanks