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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Snowbound" data-source="post: 14634" data-attributes="member: 2963">Didn’t get it done last night. I had too many distractions from people stopping by and having to eat dinner. Back at it today. Should be done tho. After the deck was filled and valves lapped in I had to check the deck for warpage. But first I always like to get it as clean and flat as possible. I make sure all the big stuff is off and then I take a piece of square tube that is perfectly straight and machined to tight tolerances. I have a few of these in different sizes floating around for **** like this. I took one that is 10’’ long and I have a roll of 600 grit sticky back sand paper and I slap that on it and start sanding. [ATTACH=full]1410[/ATTACH]First spray the deck with WD40 and work the sanding block with minimal pressure at different angles. Side to side, up and down and diagonal both ways. This keeps from causing sanding scars and keeps it uniform. Always keep as much of the block on the surface as possible to prevent low spots and do not be tempted to focus on one spot that you see. Keep the block moving and even across the surface. Once your happy, usually about 3-4 minutes is all it takes, wipe down surface and take a look. I did this 3 times on the deck. Wiping off the paper on the sanding block each time and applying more WD40. Once done, clean out bolt holes by running a thread chaser thru, blow out the holes and wipe down the surface with a lint free cloth until the cloth is clean. May have to go thru a bunch of them but it’s important for proper sealing. Install the dowels and the gasket, now your ready for the head. [ATTACH=full]1411[/ATTACH]But the heads not ready for the block so cover your work surface and go over to the head. Let’s get that flat, cleaned and ready. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk</blockquote>

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