There is a filter but changing that is usually left for the professionals and even they recommend only a routine fluid change unless you're having major shifting problems. This is common with many cars and trucks.
I tried this photo option on my android which tracks the stars between 4 and 10 minutes. You just need to have the phone held steady, I leaned it on a table top.
I needed to adjust the contrast a little but the results are pretty amazing.
I've used that type pump to drain engine oil from an inboard boost motor but I don't think it will remove all the fluid in an automatic transmission. The torque converter and other areas retain too much fluid.
Without seeing beyond filler plug to what's inside I think that it's all blocked...
No performance desire for this car as it's our grocery getter and for long road trips.
Be careful with the K&N filter by keeping it clean and oiled. Lots of grit can get through so if someone puts it on an off road Blazer they're asking for trouble. A good paper filter does a better job...
Automatic transmission fluid change done today. Drained out the old fluid, connect a drain tube to the oil cooler (Royal PIA) and flushed new fluid through until it comes out the tube cherry red. I didn’t expect too much of a performance change but it does shift smoother now.
Draining alone...
The engine is doing OK for over 130k. It uses about one quart of oil every 3000. I think the time has passed for the extended passion ring warranty but not sure. A few years ago I had the dealer change the timing chain after a tensioner bolt snapped and since then the oil consumption has been...
Yes, the "While I have it apart" effect kicked in but it's worth it to do it once and be done. I've had transmission fluid changes in several cars and they are very specific about the terminology they use. I guess it's because most people say oil and filter change while the shop will only...
Front end completed on both sides. Each side took about four hours work spread out over six hours with breaks and other stuff getting in the way. Smooth ride now with no more rattles or clickity-clacks when turning. Now off to the alignment shop and change some of the fluids.
Thanks, I just put it in the official How To section. Lots of information which may help.
https://www.chevyequinoxforum.com/threads/equinox-factory-service-manual.4428/
Hello Griffen. I found this service manual online. Is it possible to post it here as a sticky? Thanks!
https://www.cequinox.com/chevrolet_equinox_service_manual-493.html
Did that just start happening recently?
I know the key fob control has settings to determine what happens when you press the button. Maybe something hit changed. Look in the owners manual or online about those settings.
The car has 130+k miles on it and I've been driving for over 2+ years now with bad CV axles clicking away. I figured no hurry since they're pretty tough. Also the front brakes rotors are probably warped because I can feel it pulsing when brakes are applied. Since I now have brand new tires...
Here's a few pics to start off with. Very good shape for 134,000 miles with only a few door dings. This was the only one in Texas and Louisiana with this color combination when it first came out. More pics will follow in the near future as I'm starting in with replacing the CV axles...
I was first considering the new Cardone axles but the left side is not on stock anywhere. How do the Detroit Axles hold up? Also there's quite a bit of confusion amongst suppliers as to which axle seals I'll need. I know I have the 6T70 FWD transmission. Any help is appreciated.
Cheers.
The first batch of 2010 Equinox off the line had the new engine but old transmission with bad wave plates. Mine was stuck in first gear. Very lucky to have purchased the extended warrantee and two days later I got the car back with the new transmission. That was at 80k on the odometer.
For what it's worth you might consider changing the water pump while you have easy access to the bolts. It's driven by the timing chain and difficult to get to.
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